I may be married to a German, and I may have made Germany my permanent home, but I’m rather sad to say that unless I do it myself (edit: which I now have!) it’s unlikely I’ll ever be treated to a proper, traditional, home-cooked German Christmas meal.
Before my husband and I had children, we’d spend our Christmas Eves in Mainz, celebrating with his family, and then flying to London the next day to eat a traditional English turkey with mine. But even though we now celebrate full alternative Christmasses in Germany, I still won’t get a taste of a traditional German Christmas meal. My father-in-law finds duck and goosetoo fatty, and my mother-in-law finds turkey too dry, so every year,my husband and his sisters take turns to cook something entirely different – goulash, perhaps, or roasted venison – and the traditional German culinary customs are all evident elsewhere instead (see: an endless supply of Lebkuchen).
So, as the nights get darker and colder and the scentof Glühwein fills the air, I can’t help but wonder what other Germansup and down the countrywill bedishing up for Christmas. (Scroll to the end for a short list of the books I like to flick through for inspiration.)
It’s always seemedto me as if the Germans really celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve (24 December), when – at myin-law’s, at least – the ceremonial erection of the Christmas tree takes place, along with its chaotic festooning withribbons, wooden ornaments and proper burning candles (don’t me started). It is followingthe decoratingof the tree, atmy husband’s family home, that Christmas gifts are exchanged, in the warm light of the candles and a great, roaring log fire, with platters of Advent cookiesbefore us, and a large glass of wine to hand.
Since good Catholic Germans were traditionally expected to gotomidnight Mass on Christmas Eve (and many of course still do), the traditionalevening meal that daywasa light, meatless dinner, often with fish as the main dish. This culinary tradition continues today in many families, even if no church going is involved, with carp, salmon or hake often taking centre stage at the table, accompanied by fried potatoes orKartoffelpuffer(potato fritters) and Sauerkraut. However, meat has worked its way back onto the menu in manyhouseholds,perhaps as chunks of beefto dip into a cheese fondu, or– more commonly – sausagesserved with potato salad.
Thebenefit of a light(ish) supper on Christmas Eve is, of course, apart from being able to stay awake through Mass, that you can crammore food in the nextday. And in terms of a traditional Christmas Day dinner in Germany, there’s an awful lot of it to get through.
To start with, there’s the relatively low key breakfastand/orlunch, the contentof which variesfrom region to region. You’ll find cold meats and cheeses on the breakfast table all over Germany, but there are all mannerof regional variations to the meal such as the festive breads that might appear alongside them, and in the north you’ll almost certainly be offeredfish. At my in-laws in Rheinland-Pfalz, breakfast’sa late and lengthy affair featuring boiled eggs, bread rolls, cold cuts and chunks of cheese with cornichons and a collection ofjams and chutneys. Throughout the day,there’ll be a plate of spiced biscuits and squidgy-centredLebkuchenon hand to pick at; and a slice of Stollen for afternoon tea.
Despite all the edible goodies around on Christmas Day in Germany, you’ll do well to save a little space for dinner. At the centre ofa*german Christmas evening spread you’ll usuallyfind a roasted goose, turkey or duck, traditionally served with lovely plumpbreaddumplings – the classic round ones, or one great big festive loaf-shaped one, known as a Serviettenknödel(pictured sliced, above), plus braised red cabbage or stewed kale. To go with all this very rich food, you’ll most likely need a glass of good wine: a Riesling or Gewürztraminer would probablywork best.
If you’re consideringcooking a traditional German Christmas dinner,Ginger & Bread has shared a wonderful recipe forServiettenknödelon her blog (just for us!) and you can find afabulous roast goose recipeon her site as well. The dumpling recipe is vegetarian, and Gingerhas also included considerations forthose who need their Christmas dinner to be gluten free. Have a rootaround Ginger’s site and amongst plentyof veryChristmassy sweet German treats, you’ll alsofinda recipe forbraised red cabbage to go with your goose and dumplings.
If you’ve any space for pudding, a classic post-goose sweet mightinvolve festive flavours such as cinnamon, apple or orange, but there’s no one singular classic German Christmas dessert (which may come as a relief after a long day offeasting). I think I’d remove myself slowly from the table, recline in front of a cracklingfire andtuck into a tangerine or two. Imight even consumeasmall herby German digestif– but after several winters in Germany, I can only advise that you approach that sort of thing with extreme caution!
If you’re after more ideas for German food to cook during Advent and Christmas, you’ll find plenty in my favourite German cookbooks – all of which would also make excellent Christmas gifts!
