Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (1)

Butter or Crisco? The never-ending debate.Which gives the most height? Which has the most flavor? In my Culinary Chemistry class, we experimented to find out. In this lab exercise, we tested the limits of liquid to gas phase changes. There are so many useful applications in the culinary world that require and benefit from volume changes. All liquids expand in volume when they change phases and transition into a gas. That’s actually what is occurring on the molecular level of biscuit baking. Chefs can find this useful when creating other desserts such as pie crusts and puff pastries.

So, are you ready? Let the comparison begin!

Here’s what we used:

IngredientsAmounts
Butter85 grams
Crisco85 grams
AP flour600 grams
Salt4 grams
Whole milk360 grams
Baking soda20 grams

And here’s how we did it:

  1. Cut butter and Crisco into 1 cm cubes and chill.
  2. Preheat oven to 230°C.
  3. Add 300 grams of flour each into two large mixing bowls. Add 2 grams of salt and 10 grams of baking soda to each bowl.
  4. Add 85 grams of butter to one bowl and 85 grams of Crisco to the other. Distribute evenly throughout the mixtures until there are no big pieces.
  5. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add 180 grams of milk to each. Mix to combine and until the dough is one even mass; knead sparingly.
  6. Flatten out both doughs to a height of 1.5 cm for cutting. With a round ring cutter, punch out the biscuits.
  7. Cook in the oven for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

After the biscuits finished baking, the height and flavor profiles were measured, analyzed, and recorded. Flavor-wise, the Crisco biscuits seemed to be drier and had a pastier flavor profile compared to the butter biscuits. My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm. But according to our professor, Marisa Monaghan, the butter should have been the rising champ.

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2)
Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (3)

Why, you ask?Well, let’s talk science. Butter contains water. During baking, this water evaporates during its phase change from a liquid to a gas. This causes the gluten strains to stretch in the dough, usually resulting in the greater height. Crisco is the result of hydrogenation. Hydrogenation is the removal of double bonds in fats by addition of hydrogen molecules. Crisco does not have any water incorporation, which ultimately shortens the gluten strands of the dough.

If you aren’t familiar with gluten, here’s a short summary. According to the CIA’s Baking and Pastry book, gluten is the protein component in wheat flour that builds structure and strength in baked goods. It is developed when the proteins glutenin and gliadin are moistened or kneaded. It provides the characteristic elasticity and extensibility of doughs. That being said, typically in the baking process, liquids provide the moisture necessary for the hydration of the dough, which in turn aids the gluten development and rising.

Participating in this biscuit-making lab was so exciting. I previously never used Crisco at all before this experiment, so it was interesting to see exactly what it was capable of doing. The texture reminded me of coconut oil, yet it didn’t have a set distinctive smell. Moving forward, whenever I make biscuits, I know that butter is the way to go. Try this experiment out yourself if you are curious. Crisco may be beneficial for other baking applications, but for biscuit making, butter is the ultimatechampion!

By Majestic Lewis-Bryant

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Majestic Lewis-Bryant

Majestic graduated from the CIA with her associate degree in culinary arts in 2017 and her bachelor’s degree in culinary science in 2019. After completing those programs, she decided to follow her passion and pursue an additional bachelor’s degree in applied food studies. She just completed the Farm-to-Table Concentration.

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Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School (2024)

FAQs

Stories from the Lab: Butter vs Crisco for Biscuits | CIA Culinary School? ›

My team members and I also found that the biscuits made with Crisco produced the greatest height. However, other teams found that the biscuits made with butter produced the greatest height. The varying results could be because of over-kneading of the doughs or the doughs not being flattened to exactly 1.5 cm.

Is it better to use butter or lard in biscuits? ›

The stronger the bond, the tougher the crust and vice versa. Lard also has a higher melting point than butter, melting between 109 and 118° F while butter melts somewhere between 90 and 95° F. A slower render means more air and steam-release, which means more leavening and flakiness.

What fat makes the best biscuits? ›

High-fat butter, such as Kerrygold Butter, is best. The rich fat from the butter releases water when the biscuits are baking which is what contributes to the beautiful layers and flakiness that we love about biscuits.

What is the ideal shortening to use to produce a flaky biscuit? ›

Shortening (Crisco), bacon fat, margarine all can be used. Cooks will swear by shortening, but I don't like to use it because it changes the mouthfeel of the biscuits to something more akin to plastic than biscuit. I've used oil in a pinch, but butter makes it better.

Can I substitute butter for shortening in biscuits? ›

How to Substitute. No matter what you're using, use the same amount called for in your recipe. In other words, it should be a one-to-one swap. If your recipe calls for one cup of butter, you can use one cup of shortening and vice versa.

Is butter or crisco better in biscuits? ›

The butter version rises the highest — look at those flaky layers! The shortening biscuit is slightly shorter and a bit drier, too. Butter contains a bit of water, which helps create steam and gives baked goods a boost.

What is the best butter to use for biscuits? ›

Make sure your butter is at the correct temperature – use unsalted butter softened to room temperature for creaming and cold, unsalted butter for biscuits and pastries that require butter to be rubbed into the flour.

What is the secret to biscuits? ›

Carla's secret to making flaky biscuits is simple: grate the butter. Grating the butter creates shards that are uniform in size, ensuring they're evenly mixed with the flour. But in order to properly grate it, you need to make sure your butter is cold — very, very cold.

How does shortening affect biscuits? ›

Shortening is used in most doughs and batters, to give the baked product a crisp and crumbly texture. Rubbing the fat in causes the baked product to have a flaky texture, as the dough is separated into layers.

What type of flour makes the best biscuits? ›

Cake flour will give you a lighter, fluffier biscuit, but the outer crust won't have as much bite to it. Conversely, all-purpose flour will provide more bite, but it'll be a drier, less airy biscuit. The solution: Use half cake flour and half all-purpose flour.

What are the two most important steps when making biscuits? ›

The two keys to success in making the best biscuits are handling the dough as little as possible as well as using very cold solid fat (butter, shortening, or lard) and cold liquid. When the biscuits hit the oven, the cold liquid will start to evaporate creating steam which will help our biscuits get very tall.

What is the basic biscuit formula? ›

The basic formula is as follows: 2 cups AP flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 6 tablespoons butter, 1/2 cup milk—and the add-in(s) of your choice. I'm giving you two savory options. The red is a sun-dried tomato and cheddar biscuit with paprika and a touch of cayenne.

What happens if you put too much butter in biscuits? ›

Increasing the amount of butter definitely makes the biscuit "taste" softer, more crumbly, and more flaky. I usually associate flakiness and softness with size; you expect a big biscuit to be fluffy and soft, and a biscuit that doesn't rise to be dense.

Why use butter instead of shortening? ›

Cookies made with butter, especially high-sugar recipes, tend to be flatter and crispier than cookies made with shortening. Because of butter's low melting point, the dough tends to spread during baking before the structure sets.

How much Crisco to butter ratio? ›

In general, you can substitute Crisco shortening for butter or margarine in equal amounts (1 cup Crisco shortening = 1 cup butter or margarine). Not only does Crisco shortening have 50% less saturated fat than butter and 0g trans fat per serving, it gives you higher, lighter-textured baked goods.

What is a healthy alternative to Crisco for biscuits? ›

Similar to shortening, coconut oil is a hydrogenated fat that hardens at room temperature—plus, coconut oil is also vegan. Coconut oil makes a great one-to-one swap for shortening, but keep in mind that it might impart a subtle coconut flavor to your baked goods.

Why use lard instead of butter? ›

The melting point of lard is lower than butter, which means that more air and steam are released during bake times. This results in greater leavening and a flakier texture in baked goods. Lard also has larger fat crystals that leave open spaces as they melt, creating more layers than you would achieve with butter.

What type of fat is used in biscuits? ›

While you can use lard, duck fat, shortening, butter, or even coconut oil in a biscuit recipe, the kind of fat you use will have very different effects on the crumb and flavor of your biscuit. Lard was the original fat in southern recipes as it was more readily available than butter.

Why are my homemade biscuits so dense? ›

Likewise, the stickiness makes it tempting to over-knead biscuit dough, which will break down the butter into smaller pieces, shrinking the air pockets they will create during baking. The result: Tough, dense biscuits.

How does butter affect biscuits? ›

Pie Crusts, Flaky Pastry and Biscuits

That's from the overdevelopment of gluten. The butter in the dough helps to create the light, flaky texture desired in these pastries. As the dough is baked, the butter melts and creates steam, trapping it in the dough and creating air pockets.

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