Q I was watching the new "Reacher" TV series and there was a scene in which he gets dressed as a lawyer by a top New York tailor with a quick reference/joke about adding a pocket square. He definitely looked very professional, but you could barely see the pocket square and what you could see was patterned and didn't match his tie. That didn't seem in keeping with the suit; shouldn't the costumer have made a better choice, or have styles changed?
A Styles have not changed; the costumer could have made a somewhat better choice. How-to rules for wearing a pocket square are not really complicated, and the show did not actually break those rules. This sartorial accessory is always appropriate when wearing a suit, a blazer or a sports jacket. You do not need to be wearing a tie. In fact, when you are not wearing a tie, the pocket square adds a nice note of "paying attention" and setting yourself apart from the crowd.
For those men not immediately comfortable with this addition, a simple way for a man to ease into this style is to tuck a white linen handkerchief into his breast pocket instead of the more colorful silk pocket square. Here, I'd like to insert my personal opinion, which differs from the style you mentioned in the show, and which is also a style you often see in fashion photos these days. Many magazines and advertising photo spreads show a very formally folded white handkerchief (in a neat square) tucked into the man's breast pocket so that only a small straight sliver of white cloth shows. I am not fond of this look. It looks too stiff and formal to me, not to mention that it seems to show a lack of imagination. It's understandable how this style probably came about. A standard man's white linen or cotton handkerchief is large and somewhat stiff; it can be overly bulky when folded in a points-up or puffed style, making the pocket bulge.
A silk square is much softer and works nicely in the various ways to fold a pocket square. I definitely question the choice to place the silk square just barely peeking from Reacher's pocket in an unusual flat fold. Here are a few of the basics and what I hope are useful tips for how to choose and wear a pocket square with style, and what to avoid.
COLORS AND PATTERNS
• A colored silk pocket square should ideally complement some color found in your tie (or elsewhere in your combination), or it can be a contrast to them altogether. When not wearing a tie, you can choose any pocket square as long as the colors work with the rest of what you are wearing.
• Your pocket square should not exactly match your tie. No two identically matched patterns, and no two exactly matching solid colors. The show had this correct; the tie and pocket square were (perhaps too) similar in color and patterns, but not matching. Wearing a matched pair looks as if you were dressed out of a kit. The only look that is even tackier than a matched necktie and pocket square set is a matched threesome of necktie, pocket square and boutonniere.
• Choose a secondary color from your shirt or tie as the primary color for your pocket square.
• Don't overdo the patterns. If you choose two patterns, be sure they are not too similar: Avoid two paisleys, two stripes, two polka dots. In the show's case, the two patterns were both small foulards. Some item(s) in the mixture should be solid colors. And avoid flashy patterns.
FABRICS
m An all-white linen or cotton handkerchief.
• A pocket square may also be solid-colored or patterned silk.
• In warm weather, a nice alternative is a cotton square in a colorful (often pastel) pattern.
• A unique, sophisticated option is a white handkerchief with a contrasting solid-color edging.
POCKET SQUARE FOLDS
• Simple neat fold known as the flat fold, only used with white linen or cotton handkerchiefs.
• Points-up fold is used with white handkerchiefs and also with silk pocket squares. Do not arrange the points too precisely like a picket fence. You want a slightly casual air, not a stiff look.
• Soft-puff fold with the points facing down, tucked inside the pocket.
• Certain folds show different parts of the pocket square. If your square has a design with an interesting border, you may want to use a fold that shows the extra pattern.
• When inserting the folded square, allow only a few inches to show. Too floppy is clown-like.
PRICE
Prices range from $12 to $240! Some of the most expensive ones are beautiful works of art found in upscale designer shops. But, since their designs are not clearly visible when tucked into a pocket, I suggest that this is indeed a place to spend less.
One of the great things about pocket squares is that these small, relatively inexpensive items can elevate your dress level and demonstrate that you care about how you look. Incredibly versatile; they add an extra note of formality to a suit; and bring a touch of color/flair to an open-at-the-collar shirt and jacket combination. Subtle changes will get you noticed as a knowledgeable dresser with his own personal style.
When choosing a pocket square to wear, you (or the TV stylist) should select a color and pattern that coordinates with the other items you are wearing, that is neither too dressy nor too casual for your outfit, in a fold that shows enough color and pattern to catch the eye, without being flamboyant.
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