One of the best parts about our test kitchen manager, Brad Leone's, job is his weekly trip to the farmers' market. It's his responsibility to supply the kitchen with ripe produce, protein, and pantry staples year-round. In the summer and fall, when the farms are cranking out the good stuff, Brad is like a kid in a candy store. Every Wednesday, he hits the market with his reusable grocery bags to stock up on what's fresh and good—and do a little snacking and snapping along the way, of course. Check back here at our From the Market column to see what Brad picked up and, of course, to get some cooking inspiration of your own.
Kohlrabi has become the poster child for local, seasonally-focused means of sourcing produce. It seems near impossible to talk about the intricacies of cooking produce from a farmers' market or CSA without also tacking on some iteration of the phrase, "And kohlrabi! I mean, what's up with that?"
Kohlrabi is called out because it's easy to grow—many farmers plant it—but until recently, it hadn't infiltrated mainstream grocery store shelves. These days, it's much easier to find kohlrabi; if you haven't cooked with it, chances are you've at least heard of it. Here are Brad's tips about what to look for when buying kohlrabi, as well as how to prepare it. Consider kohlrabi de-mystified, once and for all.
What Makes a Good Kohlrabi?
We don't have to tell you that we prefer kohlrabi from our friendly neighborhood farmers, do we? Says Brad, "I always recommend buying organic from a farmers' market for the freshest and most tasty specimens." Beyond that, Brad says to seek out bulbs that still have their leaves attached. "It's a good indicator that the veg is fresh, and that it was harvested recently, because the leaves wilt faster than the bulb." The bulbs themselves should be enclosed with skin that's very firm and tight. Kohlrabi is heavy, and should feel more like a baseball in your hand—less like a Nerf ball.
You've heard the phrase, "the darker the berry, the sweeter the fruit," right? Well, according to Brad: the smaller the bulb, the sweeter the kohlrabi.
How to Store It
As soon as you bring your kohlrabi home, separate the leaves from the bulbs. Brad keeps the both the leaves and the bulbs in the fridge; the leaves go in a sealed zip-top plastic bag, the bulbs are stored loose. Use the leaves within a few days, but the unpeeled bulbs will last for weeks.
Eat It All
Although the bulb of the plant is the most frequently prepared and eaten portion, the leaves are also entirely edible. Chiffonade them finely and toss them in a vinaigrette, or give them a rough chop and either steam or sauté them, as you would collard greens or kale.
(Well, Except the Peel)
Kohlrabi is protected by a thick skin, which is either purple or pale green. There are no flavor variances between the colors, and the "meat" inside is all the same off-white color. Wise words from Brad: "Always peel the bulb, because the outside layer is rather fibrous and unpleasant. It won’t break down after being cooked." Use a sharp knife to remove the skin, as it's too thick for a traditional vegetable peeler.
Cook It… Or Don't
Kohlrabi is equally tasty raw or cooked. Brad likes to thinly shave the peeled, raw bulbs into matchsticks (you can use a mandoline for help with this) and toss them into a slaw. They're also crunchy, juicy, and crisp, which makes them a great addition to salads and grain bowls—think of them as less-sweet apples in terms of texture.
Prefer to cook your kohlrabi? Keep it simple. Here's Brad's advice: "I like to sauté the greens and chopped stems with garlic and olive oil. Add a touch of crushed red pepper and you’re set." You can also treat the bulb as you would any other root vegetable—chop it and roast it until tender, or add it to soups and stews.
