Shopping for new jewelry is always fun, but there’s something about buying vintage or antique pieces that makes the experience feel extra curated and special. Plus, vintage and antique jewelry can hold both sentimental and monetary value that you might not get from a modern or mass-made piece.
“I love investing in antique and vintage jewelry for several reasons,” says Megan Kothari, founder of the jewelry brand AARYAH. “Many times, they can resell for huge amounts of money, more so than modern-day jewelry, and they have sentimental value too—after all, they can bring back fond memories of a previous time, and may even remind you of things your mom or grandma used to wear.”
Not to mention, they could be handcrafted and incredibly unique, bringing about a sense of quality and style that isn’t necessarily seen in pieces today. However, there are a few key differences between purchasing vintage and antique jewelry, as well as considerations to keep in mind.
Both Kothari and Nicole Corsini, marketing director of San Francisco-based Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry, can help you figure out the ins and outs of the process. Below, learn more about the difference between antique and vintage jewelry, plus how to tell them apart.
What’s the difference between antique and vintage jewelry?
“Antique jewelry is any jewelry that is over 100 years old,” says Kothari. “It's generally constructed wonderfully, too, because after all, for something to last in good condition for over 100 years, it has to have solid bones!”
Vintage jewelry, on the other hand, is much newer. “Anything 20 years or older qualifies as vintage jewelry,” says Kothari. “Think of your mom’s old engagement ring: That’s a prime example!” According to Kothari, most antique and vintage jewelry is pre-owned and therefore also falls under the category of “estate jewelry,” which essentially simply means that it had a previous owner before you.
Both vintage and antique jewelry tend to appreciate in value over time—especially from prominent brands like Cartier or Tiffany—and are worth investing in for an expertly crafted piece you’re sure to love.
How can you tell the difference between vintage and antique jewelry?
Whether you’re shopping for vintage or antique jewelry, you’re bound to find a quality piece you’ll love for years to come. However, chances are, you’ll want to know whether the jewelry you’re investing in is vintage or antique: It changes the way you could potentially care for the item, as well its monetary value and provenance.
“There are a few key indicators to look for when it comes to differentiating between vintage and antique jewelry,” says Corsini. “As long as you know what to look for, it can be a pretty straightforward process.” Here's what to consider before buying.
Look at the hallmarks or signatures on the pieces.
“Inside the jewelry, you should look closely for any numbers or signatures that are indicative of the era in which it was made, or of the metal type used,” says Kothari. For example, some hallmarks might include symbols that indicate where the metal was verified, a maker's mark that will show you the brand, export marks indicating that a piece was created in another country, or pictorial markings indicating other metals used in the piece.
Here are several specific period hallmarks that can help you determine which era your piece is from, and you can also ask a dealer or expert to explain the specific hallmarks of pieces you want to purchase, such as region-specific options or brands that were popular back then, but have since gone out of business.
“By explaining what you’re looking for to your expert, you’re then able to get an introduction to the main hallmarks of that period, and how to look for them,” adds Kothari.
Keep an eye out for signs of wear and tear.
“This can be hard to determine because vintage jewelry is polished and refurbished, but with antique jewelry, it’s generally not so much the case,” says Kothari. “For instance, you’ll notice patina, or maybe some chipping on the stones and tarnish throughout the piece when a piece is antique.”
Vintage jewelry also displays signs of wear and tear—after all, that holds true for any pre-loved piece, but Kothari is quick to mention that vintage jewelry is more softly worn out and often refurbished: Think pearls that have lost their luster, loose clasps, and blunt edges on stones.
Antiques will definitely look older with maybe a bit of damage, but that doesn’t mean that they’re not worth purchasing: After all, they display styles you don’t find today, and will likely last much longer. “As long as you don’t mind the lived-in look, antique jewelry is a great investment for the future,” Kothari adds.
Determine the styles that are signatures of the era you’re looking for.
“A good dealer or jeweler will help you figure out the styles that were popular in the era you’re looking for, and this will also help you determine whether a piece was vintage or antique,” says Corsini. For instance, if you’re looking for an antique piece from the 1900s, your expert might point you to intricate platinum pieces with lace or flowers, according to Kothari. Similarly, vintage jewelry from the 1950s consisted of pieces that were much larger, with wide, gold-tone bracelets and strings of pearls as the norm.
It gets a little harder, of course, when you don’t know what exactly you’re looking for, and just want to shop around: There are so many different styles and eras you could look for when it comes to both vintage and antique jewelry, adds Kothari. In that case, you should look to see whether the pieces were done by hand versus machinery: “Handcrafted pieces indicate antique pieces,” she adds. Afterward, you can do a deep dive into their era and style.
Pay attention to the craftsmanship.
“Antique jewelry tends to be handcrafted as a whole,” says Kothari. “It also explains why they’ve stood the test of time so well, as they’re really high-quality. The factory-made designs of today didn’t exist back then, and there was a lot of attention paid to detail.”
According to Kothari, antique jewelry tends to have more elaborate, intricate handiwork, with hand-cut gemstones and diamonds containing larger faceting, larger tables, and open cuts. Vintage designs, on the other hand, could have a bit of factory work involved, so they’re generally more refined (less “organic,” according to Kothari), and have very specific types of hardware (the lobster claw clasp, for instance, is indicative of the 1970s). By educating yourself on the various ways the craftsmanship can display itself on a piece, you’ll be able to determine the era pretty easily.
Notice the cut of the stone.
“A huge way to tell vintage and antique jewelry apart is to look at the cut of the stone,” adds Corsini. “Vintage jewelry will have modern round brilliants or transitional cuts, while antique jewelry will generally have older cuts: European cuts, mine cuts, and rose cuts are common.”
While this obviously isn’t a hard-and-fast rule—after all, some modern diamond designs might imitate vintage or antique jewelry—it definitely helps to determine the era the jewelry is from if the other markers are relevant too.
How do you decide between vintage and antique jewelry?
By taking note of the above considerations, you should be pretty comfortable purchasing vintage or antique jewelry and knowing exactly what you’re getting. If you're not sure which one you're looking for, the experts say there (thankfully) aren’t any rules.
“It all falls down to personal preference,” adds Corsini. “You may be more drawn to certain styles from various eras, so that will help determine whether vintage or antique is better for you.” In addition, if you want to pass your jewelry down through generations, you may want to look to antique pieces that have stood the test of time.
“I don't think the category of jewelry matters as much as the 'vibe' you’re looking for,” Corsini says. “Antique jewelry is commonly made by hand, right down to the diamond cutting, so if you are looking for something unique with patina and personality, an antique piece might suit you. If you like bright white, brilliant diamonds or anything in white gold (which started being used commercially in the early decades of the 20th century), then vintage is the way to go.”
No matter which one you pick, Corsini notes that you’ll be getting something original, well-crafted, and built to last—and honestly, what more could you want?
