Crackly-topped, gooey-centered, chewy-edged: Brownies are a classic treat for a lot of good reasons. And we love them: Americans bought more than 143 million boxes of brownie mix last year, according to NielsenIQ.
Of course, you can always make your own brownies from scratch. But when your kid “reminds” you that he needs to bring a treat to school in the morning, or when you need a fast fix for a serious chocolate hankering, a boxed mix is your friend. But which one? The baking aisle is a sea of practically identical products.
To sort out whose mix should be in your mix, we started with a list of the top-selling brands, using data from Circana, a Chicago-based market research firm. (Its numbers came from grocery, drug, mass-market, convenience, military and select club and dollar retailers, and covered the year that ended in November.) That list included the category of “private label” (a.k.a. store brands), so we picked up several popular grocery versions. But even with the brand names in hand, we faced a difficult decision: Many offer milk chocolate, dark chocolate and fudge, so which variety should we test? The folks at Betty Crocker, far and away the nation’s top seller, informed us that their fudge flavor is the most popular, so we went with that, and wherever we could, we opted for the closest match.
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To prepare for the tasting, we set about creating as even a playing field as possible. We purchased all new pans of the same nonstick Wilton model, following the recommended 8- and 9-inch square pan sizes. When given a choice, we selected the 8-inch for consistency across brands.
How to bake better brownies, whether homemade or from a boxed mix
We also followed the suggested cook times and temperatures for dark metal pans. Because of the sheer volume of brownies we had to cook, we baked two pans at a time in each of our two Food Lab ovens, rotating between racks halfway through to even out the heat. Boxed brownie mixes are intended to make the process easier, but once we started assembling our back-to-back batches, it was pretty clear that the directions often left much to be desired.
Let’s just say the competition is not comparing notes, especially when it comes to determining when the brownies are done. Some give only a suggested time range, with no visual or texture cues. When cues are given, they run the gamut. Should the toothpick come out clean? Should it be almost clean? Should it have moist crumbs attached? Should it be “slightly moist”? And where to test: the center, 1 inch in or 2 inches in?
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As much as it pained us to set aside our typical baking instincts, we followed the box instructions to the letter. In the cases of those that offered no guidance other than time, we simply baked each one for that amount and hoped for the best.
Swirled brownies make a simple dessert even better
Once we had the goods, we assembled a team of eight tasters and asked them to give each sample a score of 1 to 10 (for a maximum overall score of 80), taking into account both taste and texture. To provide the full range of textures, we gave each taster an edge piece and a piece from the center of the pan. Some brownie fans are die-hard edge-eaters, while others prefer the middle. (You know who you are.) Prices listed with each review reflect where we found each brand in the D.C. region. Most are available at multiple retailers.
Who got the most Brownie points? Here’s how the judges ruled.
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Do you have a favorite boxed brownie mix that didn’t make the list? Share it in the comments.
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More about brownies and baking
Want to make brownies from scratch? We have you covered with recipes and tips.
- Our best brownie recipes for when no other dessert will do
- How to bake better brownies, whether homemade or from a boxed mix
- Swirled brownies make a simple dessert even better
- Six baking myths that you shouldn’t believe
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10. Kodiak Protein-Packed Brownie
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Score: 16
This whole-grain, high-protein brand got a universal and vehement thumbs-down from our panel. Many tasters correctly pegged this as a specialty mix, with some suggesting it might be a gluten-free variety. (Spoiler alert: Gluten-free options can be pretty tasty!) The bad reviews were scathing, riddled with epithets such as “revolting,” “dreadful,” “sad” and “ugly.” A pebbly, strangely flat appearance (“as if some crucial ingredient were missing”) and little flavor (though some detected notes of coconut and cardboard) won it no friends. “Makes me wish I was eating a brownie,” said one. (Price: $5.99 at Food Lion)
9. 365 Fudge Brownie (Whole Foods)
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Score: 26
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This short king did not appeal, either. “He didn’t rise,” complained one taster. And wait, aren’t brownies by definition supposed to taste chocolaty? This guy apparently did not understand the assignment. “Bland,” declared one. “Flavor is lacking,” said another. “People who don’t like chocolate might like it,” suggested one generous taster. (Price: $3.19 at Whole Foods)
8. Betty Crocker Fudge Brownie
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Score: 36
The undisputed champion of the baking aisle earned a unanimous “meh” from the panel. At least it didn’t offend anyone. “A very unmemorable brownie,” said one. “It’s fine?” suggested another ambivalent taster. “Kind of what I imagine a boxed brownie mix would look and taste like.” One of our tasters, who had declared himself before the taste test to be a Betty devotee, didn’t recognize his preferred brand and joined the chorus of the unimpressed. “Comes and goes without comment,” he said. (Price: $3.09 at Giant)
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6. (tie) Duncan Hines Chewy Fudge Brownie
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Score: 40
A couple of fans gave this brand a relatively high score, upping its ranking. But it had plenty of detractors, some of whom were put off by the tough outer texture. As we noted, we followed the box directions closely. The outer pieces had some fearing for their teeth. “Rock-hard edges,” complained one. “Almost inedible it’s so overbaked,” moaned another. But some who focused on the inner bits found a “fudgy, pleasant texture.” Another was an unabashed fan: “Yum!” (Price: $2.99 at Giant)
6. (tie) Krusteaz Gluten-Free Double Chocolate Brownie
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Score: 40
Let’s call this gluten-free entrant the pineapple pizza of the dessert course. It’s divisive: Five out of eight reviews used the word “grainy” or “gritty,” and it was clear they didn’t mean it in a nice way. But the pans weren’t unanimous, and several judges had praise for its deeper chocolate flavor. “Almost macaron-like at the edges,” was another compliment. And even those who were on Team Grit admitted that it was a beauty, with a pleasantly shiny top and a gooey-looking center. “Looks like how I want a brownie to look,” one summed it up. (Price: $4.99 at Harris Teeter)
5. King Arthur Gluten-Free Ultimate Fudge Brownie
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Score: 41
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Another gluten-free option (both this and Krusteaz employ rice flour, and King Arthur’s mix also includes tapioca starch) that didn’t quite hide its pedigree. Two tasters complained that it had a bit of a chalky texture. Still, people liked the pleasing chew on the edges and “full-on fudge” vibe. Interestingly, despite no artificial flavorings on the ingredient list, a couple of judges thought they perceived synthetic notes at this cocoa party. (Price: $7.29 at Shoppers Food Warehouse)
4. Ghirardelli Chocolate Supreme
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Score: 45
Ghirardelli is like Grey Poupon: Sure, they might be grocery store brands, but they have that cachet of fanciness. The upscale feel here starts with the packet of chocolate syrup you drizzle into the batter. (How do you say ooh-la-la in Italian?) It came across to tasters, too, who found the chocolate flavor more complex here than in other mixes, with people shouting out subtle hits of vanilla, gingerbread and rye. But although the maxim might be true that one can never be too rich, it’s possible a brownie can be overly moist. “Almost pudding,” as one described it. “Maybe too soft,” another suggested. (Price: $3.59 at Safeway)
3. Pillsbury Chocolate Fudge Brownie
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Score: 49
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If this were a beauty pageant, the Doughboy would be wearing the tiara. People noted its lofty height (“fluffy,” according to a few) and glossy top. And although good looks can take you pretty far, it’s what’s on the inside that counts — and in this case, that wasn’t the chocolaty confection tasters were hoping for. “I feel duped,” said one, calling it “rather bland overall.” “I wish the flavor had more oomph,” another lamented. Another taster found an apt analogy: “The Barbie of brownies — a little lacking in substance, but shiny!” (Price: $1.99 at Safeway)
2. Great Value Fudge Brownie (Walmart)
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Score: 52
A crackly crust was a lure for this popular entrant. Several people found it to have the classic profile of a treat that would look right at home at the PTA bake sale. “Opening a dictionary, I would expect to see this as the entry,” one said. “Shiny crust that looks like a cracked frozen lake, chew and a slow melt.” “Just a solid brownie,” concurred another. People liked its middle-of-the-road consistency: not too fudgy, not too cakey. And its flavor similarly struck a balance that tasters liked. “The chocolate is well-rounded,” said one. “I’m a fan.” (Price: $1.24 at Walmart)
1. Trader Joe’s Brownie Truffle
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Score: 54
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To be fair, this brand had an advantage from the start: The mix contains chocolate chips that melt into the batter for an extra boost of chocolate goodness. But we knew it was popular with shoppers, so we included it in the field as one of the “private label” representatives. Turns out, that addition might be the not-so-secret weapon that helped this one come out on top of the gooey heap. The chips give these squares a dense, fudgy consistency, and because they’re semisweet, the final product has a sophisticated, not-too-sugary profile. Many tasters noted that these weren’t traditional brownies; there was no chewy crust or crackle-crisp surface. But the flavor won them over big-time. “This is the one that could pass for homemade,” one said. “One of the few to give me that dark-chocolate swoon,” another fan chimed in. “Hot chocolate in brownie form,” was another rave. (Price: $3.49 at Trader Joe’s)
