Kohlrabi, that knobby, alien-looking farmers’ market find, is a member of theBrassicaceae (also known asCruciferae) family, that versatile group of vegetables that includes kale, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, bok choy, cauliflower, turnips, radishes, horseradish, mustard, arugula and rapeseed (aka, canola).
The kohlrabi “root” is actually the swollen stem of the plant that grows above ground, topped by leaves resembling kale or collards. Fast growing and easy to cultivate, kohlrabi is becoming more popular in the US, but its strongest foothold is in Germany, Eastern Europe and India.
What to look for when buying kohlrabi
Kohlrabi comes in two varieties: one deep purple and the other vibrant green. Both have pale green to white flesh. The bulb should be firm with no spongy bits and no visible brown spots. If leaves are still attached, they should be sprightly, green and free of wilt or mold.
Meta Given’s “Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking,” from 1947, is a wealth of information about selecting kohlrabi. In the cookbook, Givens says that, grown under ideal conditions (cooler weather and abundant moisture), “the ball is so tender that the skin is easily pierced with the thumbnail and strips off like the skin from a tangerine.” (n.b., Givens also has recipes for “Kohl-Rabi with Peanut Butter Sauce,” “Buttered [boiled] Kohl-Rabi” and the more-delicious sounding “Kohl-Rabi with Cheese Sauce.”)
Younger kohlrabi are more tender, while older kohlrabi tend to be woodier. You can differentiate between young and old primarily by size — younger kohlrabi are smaller, usually between 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Kohlrabi should be spherical in shape. Stay away from kohlrabi that are tapered, as they also tend to be woodier.
Sustainability of kohlrabi
Kohlrabi are susceptible to the same diseases and pests as other members of the cabbage family, so pesticides to control fungi and insects may be applied. The good news is that Its relative obscurity — stateside, at least — means that demand is low enough to keep kohlrabi a product grown on a small (and often more sustainable) scale.
If you are concerned, the best thing to do is ask your local kohlrabi farmer about his or her growing practices.
Top photo by elisafina/Adobe Stock.
